Monday, October 10, 2011

jeans draft front


So I have drafted the fronts of the jeans, as instructed.
Beginning with the crotch or "fork line", at "0".
0-1 is the rise , less the waistband which I decided was 1 and 1/2 inches deep.
the instructions progress logically until you get to
"draw the fly seam"
Looking at the illustration of the draft makes this instruction confusing.
So I left it for a moment and went to the next few instructions
0-8 to find the hip point
9 from 7 to get the waist point
11 is 1 inch above the fork line and 1/2 inch from the fly seam grow on fly at point 10-11.

Ok so this is irritating.
There is 1/2 inch seam allowance allowed, so you can see the dotted line inside the lower area of the fly line that is drawn from 6 indicating the seam allowance. At 11 it turns abruptly into the solid line from 11 to 10.
10 is 1/2 inch in from 7 so one assumes that is seam allowance.
Then you see the fly line from 6 running into a point above 11 in a small dotted line, that seems to run into the line 10- 11 as well.
It makes it very confusing to determine where the centre front line is if you didn't want a grow on fly.
The abrupt angle formed at 11 isn't pleasing to me either.

I am very opinionated about drafts and I think they should be clear.
This one doesn't get any marks for clarity.

What else can I say at this point? I think that there will need to be some truing up of angles at some point, but I will draft the back next ( I think there is something odd going on there as well), so I'll go onward and try to make sense of it all at the end.


3 comments:

  1. I have done that draft. And I wondered about point 11 too. I thought this peculiarity is the dress part. The finesse "1/2 inch from the fly SEAM" I did not understand. Thanks for pointing out. Now the crotch curve looks much better.
    With the back I had no difficulties, to found point 29 I did a circ.
    For me the (big) s.a. are not good to draft with.
    lg
    heidi

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  2. Hi Terri,

    Out of curiosity, did you sew the pocket along with the side seam or did you do a more complicated finish, laying it on top of a busted side seam?

    Cristian

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  3. I'm not completely clear what you mean. I didn't make these up in fabric. Typically, jean have the pocket bag caught into the side seam. It is the simplest technique, compared with a traditional men's trouser pocket.

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